Visitors to Rome have never had it so good. Museums have been restored, opening times extended and squares, bridges and ancient ruins expertly illuminated. Now free guided walks have been laid on in English for those who want something a little off the beaten track. There are tours of the churches and parks of the Aventine hill (Nov 12), a walk which takes in Caravaggio’s Roman masterpieces (Nov 18) and another one which uncovers the secrets of the ancient Jewish ghetto (Dec 10). Definitely worth the trek.